Next, I found when I followed directions and ran that GCODE file as you said, the printer did it's thing and sat there at 62% as if it was not finished. This makes the effective pitch 8mm instead of 2mm. I'll be using a small drill press as well but am not really familiar with it and don't want to totally screw up my printer. The main part of the bed is 3 mm thick aluminum with a removable flexible steel build plate held in place by magnets. Different motors seem to have different depth threaded holes so try a few screws until you find ones that don't hit the bottom of the holes in the motor. But, I did eventually figure out that turning it off didn't mess anything up. There must be a standard footprint for the nuts on these lead screws because the hole pattern in the new nut matched the holes in the X-axis gantry on my Mini exactly. There's simply no getting around the fact that the Z stepper motor setup in the early Monoprice Select Minis which were produced, caused a lot of issues with Z-wobble and banding artifacts in prints. Just take your time because if you bork it up you're done, but it is pretty easy to do. MP Select Mini v2 - what are my firmware upgrade options? I literally just eyeballed and matched up a drill bit base with new nut - It was snug and needed to be pressed in a bit but pretty much slipped right in. I'll have remove those internals, looks like the rod will fit through, but I'll need to drill out the small hole on top for the new nut and some holes for the screws too. The Prusa I3 cloan leadscrew I purchased off Amazon has 2mm threaded pitch. They seem decent unlike the questionable Z Axis motor. Thanks a lot for this post, and the motor mount on thingiverse. A dremel with a cutoff wheel goes through that ABS like hot knife through butter. This is a “kit” with the wiring and such. Printer comes with a manual, power cord, a few spool holder options, a glass bed, alligator clips, and the installed z-axis support. Wish me luck! *Note: Monoprice has started shipping printers with these already upgraded from the factory. Overall, the print turned out beautifully. I noticed the main controller board is in a different place. Obviously, it's not quite as you say "that's it". I've looked into updating the firmware as a way of fixing that. MAKER SELECT 3D PRINTER V2. I simply took off the cable going to the Y-axis motor in the mini, and used that as a model to copy when making the cable for the new motor. So make sure all layer heights are divisible by 0.04. Getting it all back together properly isn't hard either, just tedious. This upgrade replaces the factory duct on the monoprice select mini while also upgrading to 40mm fan (from 30mm). I spent too much on my house to have it burn down. Most TR8 leadscrews used for printers have a 2mm pitch with 4 starts instead of 1. M500 ; Save New Settings
Monoprice Select Mini - Part 2: Flashing the Firmware 3D printing for the absolute beginner - Monoprice Select Mini Improving Spectator View – A usable HoloLens mount Creating an … Does it look OK to you?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LF2GGJ4. Since this printer is designed for beginners, we were pleased to see that it ships fully assembled and pre-calibrated. The bracket only works in this orientation, so be sure the screws are in the countersunk holes and are not bottoming out in the motor. I see on another post where the V2 X axis motor is only 50 s/m where the V1 was 100? The printer will read the settings and configure the printer accordingly. You don't specify what any of the wires are or the perspective of the connectors. There's simply no getting around the fact that the Z stepper motor setup in the early Monoprice Select Minis which were produced, caused a lot of issues with Z-wobble and banding artifacts in prints. The trade off here is I didn't have to do anything to base where the motor mounts, already had the holes so no printing the part for that, which was nice. More. Monoprice Replacement UI Control Board With Display for the MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2 (15365 and 21711) Rated 3.5 /5 based on 11 customer reviews Add Your Review They screws have to be secured to the plastic so the motor cannot move. Be sure it is not warped when you print it too. Do you still use layer heights like 0.175, 0.21875, and 0.2625? I was able to find several sets of them on Amazon.com, and they all seem to be made as upgrades for the Prusa I3 and clones. A project log for Monoprice Select Mini Maximum 3D Printer Mods. I think your calculations are wrong for your steps per mm. I took the same color wires from the mainboard and wired it to the new NEMA Z motor based on the Y motor's wiring and it did NOT work. All that's left to do is send this to the printer to tell it the new value for Z steps per mm and we're done. Reassemble the Z-axis rods and X-axis gantry as described in the "Z-axis stabilizers" part of this project, and insert the NEMA17 motor into the chassis from below. Maker Select 3D Printer. I bought one because it was so cheap I had to give it a go. Except where otherwise noted, content on this site is licensed under the following license: CC Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 4.0 International CC … You will also need to start the leadscrew threads into the leadscrew nut on the gantry and turn the leadscrew by hand until the NEMA17 motor can slide in place without the gantry hitting the upper extent of travel. I picked a motor with a cable that plugs in so that I could use the cable that came with the printer, only I was surprised to find out that the old motor and new motor had different plugs. The new Z step values stuck and it correctly figured out home position and my initial test print worked. I've already detailed how to remove the existing lead screw in my previous project entry: https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/51880-dont-go-wobbly-on-me-now and how to remove the X-axis gantry and Z-axis rods in this project log: https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/45659-adding-3d-printed-z-axis-rod-stabilizers. I have a Monoprice Select Mini V2 that I picked up used. Press J to jump to the feed. Another from the bottom after removing from the chassis: https://gyazo.com/4e40881a1893e1122cf20196cc38fa92. Now, I know that you show a reversal in your diagram, but there's just no good way of figuring out what goes where without looking deeper and specifying the pinout more. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the MPSelectMiniOwners community, Continue browsing in r/MPSelectMiniOwners. Helpful guides for all the odds and ends to go with your 3D printer. JUST CURIOUS AS TO WHY YOU USED A TR8*8 INSTEAD OF A TR8*2 OR A TR8*4 . Looking at the old Z motor's connector, from the back with the key upwards, I had Blue-Black-Nothing-Red-Green. It has to be perfectly flat. If you use a separate motor and leadscrew with a coupler, you will possibly have to put the leadscrew nut on the top of the gantry to leave space for the coupler under the gantry. D9 PARTS. GOD BLESS YOU!!! Mini Delta Gets A Hot End Upgrade. Reading the SD card. Note that the nut can sit on top of or below the gantry. The Monoprice MP Select Mini comes with a micro SD card pre-loaded with a sample 3D printed. Low/zero cost upgrades for the Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer. I3 MINI PARTS. Assuming your Prusa I3 cloan stepper/leadscrew is similar to mine (2mm pitch), your settings should look like this: (1600 steps/mm [vs your 400steps/mm]; at 1/16th driver microstepping), M500 ; Save New Settings G28 ; Home All Axis M84 ; Disable All Motors. Fortunately, the NEMA17 motors in the printer did have the same plug as the new NEMA17 motor. Turn the printer off and then on? All files are printable without supports. I contacted Maylan the original manufacturer of the board fo… After you've gotten your brand new Select Mini out of the box, the next big step is updating the firmware. Calibrating the printer CPU for the new motor is easy, and you must do this or the size of your prints will be way out of whack. Here's a pic I just took - front cover is still on so not the best, but you can see how it ended up: https://gyazo.com/ca290a183093cd9da9ed1eaa8d6c8d20. Now the not would go on and off easily. This value includes the portion of the screw inside the motor, so it's really about 260mm long.