The answer to this question is an easy one for me: Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss acrylic, thinned with Mr. Color Thinner. All of these thinners are relatively mild, but do a great job on these paints - better than any other alternative I've tried. Now for the question which one to use, i can not answer that. For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya PS spray paint. Hard, high gloss finish without having to buff. Great kit from Tamiya. The first coat was rough, of course, because it was so thin. Maybe the paint is too hot? I am a retired Chemist so I know it is voodoo science when dealing with chemical formulations. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish. As where I painting out in the garage. I'm not saying this is the methode, it is just how i paint my models. I find it fine with Microset and Mr Mark Setter - I've not seen any problems at all (very thin airbrushed X-22 + Tamiya Lacquer Thinner). Almost because a label on the top read Do not spray over decals. Marcel111, I am sure Tamiya does a glossclear. Great looking car when finished. One thing is for sure, these clear coats can used on acrylic coats, no problem at all, that i allready tryed, but i need a good clear coat which give me a smooth and nice layer image. I usually thin it with some Tamiya lacquer thinner 1 to 1 and a few drops of retarder. Is … Im lazy. List of reasons you might want to clear-coat over decals: It’s a safari vehicle or mud-bogger and you’ll be driving it deep into the mud daily, then clear-coating could add a second layer of durability. Mission Models MMP quick clear coat and decal application demonstration video. Future/Klear is acrylic paint without any pigment. Welcome to HyperScale's Discussion, Picture Posting & Trading Forums, Like a lot of folks, I find myself using more and more acrylic paints.  I usually use the current edition of Pledge with Future Shine Floor Polish as a gloss coat before applying decals.  Some decals can be tough to get to conform to surface features and may require multiple applications of Micro Sol and/or Solvaset to wrangle into submission.  Some of these decal setting solutions have spotted or attacked Future requiring decal removal and repairs to the Future gloss coat.  Is Tamya X-22 acrylic gloss clear any better standing up to hot decal solvents? The surface is painted with tamiya pure white spray paint and it left a semi-gloss finish and where some small areas must have got a little more paint it is glossier. Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS79. Indeed, it will thin the paint, but later it will effect the paint layer. I don't have the Testors "decal bonder" spray. First you need to know from which substances windscreen wiper fluid is made, and this is fairly simple : shampoo, windex, dish soap and methanol that is also present in the windex fluid. Thanks for all the replies.  I think I am going to pick up a bottle of X-22 and try it.  It can be used for final gloss coats on my car models if nothing else.  Sounds like the key to good results is to let it cure for several days. I know, many modelers used this, and say, "that works fine for me", but windscreen wiper fluid causes more then only thinning the paint. Only issue I have ever had was using testers gloss clear out of can last winter. I laid the second coat on a little thicker, and ended up with major orange peel and even plenty of rough spots. Once you painted the subject with a acrylic paint, it is possible to use different sort's of clear coats. Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS65. I hate cleaning the airbrush and Ive read a lot of good stuff about Tamiya spray cans. ... Is it safe to use over decals i.e. Don't forget that Future is a floor polish, it's not designed to be airbrushed onto models. Depending on the kind of clear you use, it may also help prevent color fading by blocking UV light. How does Tamiya Clear X-22 Acrylic hold up to decal setting solutions. Recently I'm struggling with wrinkles of decals when I spray a clear lacquer coat over. ;-) My question are: 1. Cheap price. Paste is used for clear coates, like pigments are for color coates, the soap will damage those and you get the same result in time. It' s a fairly simple explanation, soap is an enemy of paint, because it breaks down some substances that are present in the paint, the most importand is the pigment, that colors the paint. Hi, I'm not that new to the hobby. Two follow-up questions: 1. However, the whole affair has left me a little anxious to the problem, I would like to eliminate the risk altogether, so I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a "safe" gloss coat that can be used over acrylics (I use Tamiya, Vallejo, Lifecolor and am moving away from Gunze because of this). On the next try, I sprayed a couple light coats of Tamiya clear on them BEFORE putting them in water. I was wondering if you help , I am working on my 1/350 scale tos enterprise and i have my base color on the hull which is tamiya acrylic . Future is not designed as a hobby clear coat and is not a decal solvent either. The solvents in the clear coate need time to vaporize, if you put thin layers on you're model, then the solvents will not have the time to tackle the acrylic paint underneat, but vaporize in an instand. Now. Clear coating helps to protect the decal from peeling, cracking or sustaining other damage from exposure to the elements. I want to clear coat to protect the decals after they are put on. For best results allow up to one week. Its not any stronger or more durable than any of their other paints if that gives you any indication... Â. I used Solvaset on decals over X-22 Clear without any problems. If you have vintage decals spray them with clear enamel in a spray can from ACE.If you dont clear coat them the old decals will fall apart as you are soaking them.I have used this method many times on bikes and vintage campers.After you spray the decal you have to cut it as close as you can around the edges before soaking,If you dont cut off the excess around the decal you will have big … In that way the first clear coat layer will protect you're underneat acrylic paint, now you can build up safely you're clear coat layers until you are happy with the result. I use primarily tamiya and model master acrylics. The resin shell (Pre-Wing) has been finished with Tamiya rattle can primer. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. I'm trying some custom stripes and I'm using Testors clear decal film. I know, many people would say......yeah right, and i understand that, but i know all of these facts because i was a profesional painter for about 25 years, in a factory that manufactured paint. I'm not endorsing or criticizing the use of Future, just sayin'. You could try multiple coats, but i am sure the car guys might have some useful tips. The following shows the application of a decal to Tamiya’s 1/35th M113 armoured personnel carrier. The paint is Tamiya Acrylic applied with an airbrush. I always wait a few days before applying decals to ensure the X-22 has properly cured. I always used Tamiya TS-13 clear over decals and paint on slot cars. But it is a gloss coat. If you use TS- 13 over decals test it on spare decals to see how much they can take. After a quick coat of Tamiya X-22, the issue went away entirely. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_paint. I have in the past used Windex (an ammonia-based window cleaner) to thin Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, and while it works, it seemed to make the paints less durable (as Carl mentioned), and they definitely dried a little softer. If the clear edges start to lift or curl, they are starting to burn! Kevin, Dean, any reason you don't thin X-22 with windscreen wiper fluid? It seems the lacquer thinner (Tamiya) is the best as it takes just the good time to dry. This is a good way to use with all sort's of clear coats, and also color coats of different sort's and brands. I have subsequently learnt that this is a known problem in that combination of products, over the weekend at a modeling show I was told to just apply very thin coats of Future. will clear coating with matte after decals work with little issue. Trying to build a hot box this fall to help with curing parts. It is a lacquer formulation, which brand of clear coat is safe to seal decals? Marcel, I used to thin Tamiya acrylics with windshield washer fluid but found it made it less durable. When you put one thick layer of clear coat, the solvents need a long time to vaporize, and will effect the acrylic paint, with the well know results. For clear coats it will yellow in time because of the negative effect of the soap on, one of the substances, the paste. Almost picked it up at the LHS today. Depending upon the desired finish, I'll then topcoat overall with any of the Alclad II clear finishes, including dead flat. The paint will flake off. I don't know why their flat coat says not to use over decals. You've applied misted layers with a thicker final layer of top coat. Not meant to criticise in any way. It may cost me more, but compared to the cost of the model, it's small. Many people have good results with it, but i think even more people encounter issues with it. When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Probably best to not risk it. I can only get the temp up to about 45-50 degrees and we keep the house at 65ish degrees. is forgiving and easy to use. They seemed to work out OK with that approach. all the ink came off. I understand now that it's laquer based and intended for use over other TS colour coats, but this initial test looks to have gone OK over X-7 Red left to dry for about 48 hours before the clear coat... was that just pure luck? An example : you paint you're model with an acrylic based paint, first let it dry for 24 houres. TIA, I’ve brushed Tamiya X-22 onto areas where I later applied decals and it stood up to Solvaset. NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. color coat and top coat. ... Decals adhere better to gloss or semigloss finishes. 2. It's easy. I used the tamiya spray paint for the black then clear coat over decals. This was however, using their original paint formula which Tamiya changed after many people experienced cracking issues with their paints, especially the clear ones. Some people have had no problems simply by spraying light mist coats to cover the decals followed by slightly heavier wet coats. NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. I brushed on the decal solution and let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear dry over night. I have a set of Maktar masks I'm kind of dying to try out for the National Insignia. For good decals, gloss coat, apply the decals, then gloss coat again. I could have warned you about masking over decals with Tamiya tape - from personal experience! Second, the Great Wall Hobby Su-35 of #Flankoff fame. I've damaged airbrushed coats of X-22 with multiple applications of decal solvent. I have also thought of using the Mr. Surfacer UV Cut Gloss Coats, but am a little anxious about trying out a new product. Modelling experience is helpful but if it’s a first attempt worth ago for the price. ... As this is for a car, its a bit out of my area, i only want enough of a gloss to apply decals. Alcohol seems to make it dry faster but sometimes the aspect is not so good and doesn't self-level as good as with Tamiya lacquer thinner. First i wanna say that i also tried previous the use of Future with my airbrush, but for me, that is a no go. The clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal Clear Glaze 0500 (recommended by a Model Maker at work). These decals had a whole other problem – thickness – that we’ll get to in a minute. Kev MikeC , Marcel111 , Bravo52 and 2 others I will give Tamiya X-22 a go since it is Acrylic. I always used Tamiya TS-13 clear over decals and paint on slot cars. But maybe the most importand fact is the methanol. Applying clear coat can harm decals. The formula change happened when they switched to the smaller 10ml bottles. Sign up for a new account in our community. Some time ago I experienced cracking of Gunze paint after applying a thick coat of Future. I may spray a coat of clear then decal and seal with another coat … Yep, you can pretty much put anything you want over X-22 once it has cured, save for hot lacquers. And a clear coat over the decal doesn't seem to help either. Step 1 Which, the micro sol and sal started to take up paint. I don't even use it in my car! Hate to stat the obvious, but could you use a glass clear coat. Final Finishing - Lotus 25 - posted in Scratch building: I recently completed this build for an upcoming proxy for 1.5 liter 1960s Grand Prix cars. Everybody has to chose for himself which thinning solution to use, but for me, i stick to the manufacturers thinning products or equal.......example : Tamiya X20A is simply pure isoprophyl alcohol, so i buy it at a pharmacy which is very cheap. I dont think it would attack any paint as you only use a very few and wipe the excess a few seconds after setting the decal. Just don't let it excessively pooled over the decals for long periods, otherwise it's possible it could melt the clear coat and possibly the decals too, though I had never had that happened. Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. Can Tamiyas Finishing polishing compound be used over top coated decals? You've used Microsoft (or any other decal softener) to firmly set the decals. Is it safe to use as a clear coat over airbrushed Tamiya Acrylics (X/XF)? But there nothing better than one's own experience, so you can try yourself and see what you get. Now Id like to have a flat coat from the can. In general, use the manufacturer's clear coat. Just I'm risk averse. For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya … Is Tamiya TS-80 any good? (I don’t use any other setting solutions.). Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. About the fact of laying thin layers of paint.... that's true, better to lay 5 thin layers then to lay one thick one......why?? If the decals get damaged you have to strip the car down and start all over. But. Applying too thick of a layer at one time just creates problems and a surface that isn't glass smooth. I hope my explanation is clear, because English isn't my mother language. You've used Tamiya Rattle can Clear as a top coat. By I don't thin X22, I just spray it in very thin layers with a slightly higher pressure than thinned Tamiya acrylic paint. I swear by using Future as my decal solvent. I am thinking about applying a coat of Modelmaster gloss enamel over the acrylics I use as a way of providing a protective layer, any thoughts on that? i want to clear coat it gloss so the decals go on nice. Simple to build. October 3, 2016 in General Discussion. I always clear coat over the top of the decals (for hard bodies). Moreover it's not a solvent at all. Sometimes the decals are OK, other times they may crinkle up. It works most of the time, but it's not guaranteed to do so. I then tried Tamiya clear thinned waaaaayyyy thin with Mr Leveling Thinner. Windscreen wiper fluid is not something I use. Skill required to apply decals. The paint will flake off. Of course, your other option is to just rip the entire decal off and redo it. At the moment i have the Alclad clear coats, gloss and mat stand ready to try, but due to my accident i need to wait a further more to try them out. Seems to help prevent them from lifting over time. Just don't let it excessively pooled over the decals for long periods, otherwise it's possible it could melt the clear coat and possibly the decals too, though I had never had that happened. But it is a gloss coat. I brushed on the decal solution and let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear dry over night. Nothing new. This website uses cookies for functionality, analytics and advertising purposes as described in our, PLANE TALKING - HyperScale's Aircraft Scale Model Discussion Forum. Doing a USAF Thunderbird, plan on using two bob decals over Tamiya fine white primer as color coat. Same acrylic based ones, enamel based ones, and even solvent based ones are surely possible. Can Future be applied over X-22 (very modestly)? Just a little bit of this fluid has enough toxic that it will damage seriously you're health. Clear-coating over decals might work excellent for rim caps! I know loads of people who use Future & all sorts of automotive based chemicals with results at least as good. After decals, another coat of Aqua Gloss over the decals and overall, then weathering, etc. the first attempt failed as soon as I put it in water. But i don’t want the final surface to be gloss . After the decal steps are finished, the locomotive can be lightly weathered as desired. And Tamiya's X-22 is a terrific clear gloss; far superior to floor polish in my opinion, and safe to use over most other paints. If you have good results with your decals using future, it's just because the Future acts like a glue and fill the microscopic bubbles between the surface and the decal film, so you avoid silvering and improve the adherence of the decal. I regularly use for gloss:Testors GlosscoteAlclad GlossThe original Kleer - PledgeIn each case I start by thinning the gloss to at least 50/50, apply in very thin, light layers and build up the gloss as needed. You just need to keep certain aspects in mind regarding the painting process. Working pressure is approx 12 psiPeter. However, I chalk it up more to the paint and clear coat not being 100% cured. Also, because the thickness of the clear coat layer, there will be color disorder, and crackling problems. Any tips why? Now, I did have it bubble a decal once when I was gloss coating a race car model, but honestly I think it was more me getting heavy handed and not waiting for … Applying clear coat can harm some decals. Thanks in advance .. Then, you will used a solvent based clear coat like Alclad, that's ok, because you can do that, but only if you airbrush the Alclad clear coat in very thin layers with a pause of several minutes between the layers......why?? MarcelI paint almost exclusively with acrylics and fortunately have never experienced any cracking problems of either the clear top coats or the paint itself. After spending hours building, I don't want to risk mucking it up with the painting. I'd agree with Kev -Tamiya X22 is great. Acrylic (Tamiya X-22, Future, etc.) ... at least 24 hours before handling the model — and longer than that if the paint is especially thick or you are going over it with another coat of color or clear. And Tamiya's X-22 is a terrific clear gloss; far superior to floor polish in my opinion, and safe to use over most other paints. Call me old fashioned and conservative, but I largely stick to manufacturers thinners.Â. You've used Patto's waterslide's for your decals. But honestly, they thin and spray so well with Mr. Color Thinner that I simply wouldn't bother. TS65 Pearl Clear gives the underlying paint of a model a pearlescent final finish. Tamiya paint, Tamiya thinner: Using the same brands guarantees compatibility. X-22 can be thinned with many different thinners, from water to alcohol to lacquer thinner, with different results. You can also use the Levelling variety, or even Tamiya's own branded lacquer thinner. With a few materials and a little of your time, you can clear-coat decals yourself. As for windscreen wiper fluid - the thought never occurred to me. Some years of that career i worked in a labo, and there i learned all this stuff. At the moment i'm looking for a good clear coat to use, previous brands didn't give me positive results. To avoid the risk I coat decals with Future before I put on the final clear coat, since I started doing that I have not had any problems with damaged decals. The clear coat it's decanted from a spray can. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Hi Curt, I use the Aqua Gloss over BMF (and other) finishes, shooting first just where the decals go on. The most importand negative effect is color fading and killing of the uv filter protection. As for decal solvents: Microsol and Mr Mark Softer are also ok, but I must admit that I usually take care to apply the decal solvent only to the decal - I wick away any that spill into the surrounding area. I don't know why their flat coat says not to use over decals. You've used Tamiya rattlecan spray paint for you base colors. The final clear coat can be whatever you want to use for the over all look you are wanting to … Since switching to x-22 I have not had any problem with micro sol or set damaging the clear coat. ... then try painting over the decals with … Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. Applying clear coat can harm some decals. After the decals were down, I sprayed a coat of Gunze C181 semi-gloss clear. This fluid is the most dangerous part of the the whole windscreen fluid, because it's very toxic. Blakbird's RC.