Wheelies on demand. Is there any upgrades for this problem? :D One of the reasons it got retired was because of the original dog bone set up. (In theory, it should'nt matter which shock is used, as the trailing arms maximum travel should still be the same, but perhaps because the yellow shocks are oil filled, and not so strongly sprung, the weight of the car, especially when carrying a battery, makes the ride height lower, hence why you say the rear end ride height looks lower, and the angle of the dogbones less steep). Nice. (19) 19 product ratings - MIP Super 16210 Ball Differential Tamiya Blackfoot/ Monster Beetle. Still getting the dog bones popping out on one side, I have changed the re re frog double ended dog bones for a set that is fixed at one end in the drive cup via Allen key, but is dog bone at the other end off of e-bay. The reinforced polycarbonate monocoque frame chassis allows easy access to the main components and make maintenance of gearbox a breeze. On my Blackfoot, the shocks are almost exactly 3 inches (76 mm) eye-center to eye-center. There's a lot of customizing and shimming and such to be done, I need to come up with a nice rear shock attachment and make a few other adjustments before I'll be able to take this bad boy for a spin. My question is, should i have bought a longer dogbone drive set and if so does anyone know of a set that would fit that are slightly longer. I'm going to use hexes with 7mm and 4mm offset on the rear and front axles respectively. the issue of longer shafts is that they may bind as the suspension compresses , although most tamiya drive shaft cups look the same they often have subtle changes to make up for such issues as you are having . The LCA-to-chassis free play wasn't even that bad all things considered and was easily fixed by shimming the arms. It's a question and the answer is yes! Btw, let me know if you want the part numbers. The only thing I'm worried about at this stage is if I can get the upper arm sit tight enough in the mounts as not to flex back and forth, as this would basically ruin the whole idea. $105.00. I went to do the cup mod where you screw the two together and broke my tap bit inside the cup. Where did you get blue wheels??? I'll definitely do a video overview of what has been done and modified but that could still take a while. AmPro makes a modern version of the Parma knuckle that should work just as well (from the video I watched, not from personal experience). But its this feature that makes them interesting to tinker with and drive. First I've fitted Savage X big bore dampers onto it. Works great, and allows me to fit a vintage set of Parma steering thingies that help to reduce bump-steer. I placed the order and am currently eagerly looking forward to the parts arriving at my door step. Vintage 1986 Tamiya Monster Beetle Part Motor Speed Control Pinion gear Resister. And last but not at all least, I'll need to order another set of CVDs because I miscalculated the required length. Hi guys, I have a MB that i have successfully used a frog re release dogbone set to upgrade the drive shaft and move away from the hex drives. This was common problem on early FAV / Wild Ones and tamiya re-modeled the rear arms with oval stops to prevent the arm falling too far with damper at full extent. ", https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2PTnfTFsFQ, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leMEaFB_w5M, http://www.modellbau-etter.de/rc-car-zubehoer/karosserien/index.html, 2.4 GHz Turnigy TrackStar TS4G TX and RX with integrated gyro. In order to prevent the steering from ripping the chassis apart I put threaded sleeves through the frame and secured the whole thing with M4 screws from top and bottom. That way front and rear towers are connected and provide each other stability (at least that's what I hope). I've only mounted the parts loosely on one side of the chassis, which makes for nice comparison shots. I've been looking for an upgrade for my SBF and KBF. The arms are from an XRay T3, in case you were wondering, and are each sitting on a pair of steel-ceramic-hybrid ball bearings. (Haha still no offence). You guys have any idea why I can't upload a profile pic? this is my first post here. Have got the alerts for my other post though and it has led me here. I still haven't received my 70 mm shocks so took your advice and placed a spacer in the Blackfoot black style shocks ( no shock oil), I did this by using one of the small guide sleeves that goes through the shock fixings eyes, placing this inside the shock on the shaft, this has worked brilliantly and seems to have solved my problem, well done guys and thanks for the heads up. By this point, the chassis itself was the main remnant from the old ORV days. What do you think? The MB with its 70mm yellow shocks seem to be at a more straight / level angle, and by comparison from the rear looks like a low rider. But hey, I'm not complaining because that's part of what makes modifying the truck so much fun. At the end I lost the steering but it was easily fixed and nothing was broken, just a slipped bushing, that's all. The SBF also lost the rear trailing arm suspension and gained a wider version of the original BF's front suspension. But for now I'm concentrating on making everything fit properly and have the suspension in place before carrying on to re-building and reinforcing the steering. If I keep posting more I'm afraid one will loose track of where one mod ends and the next one begins. These products are not only sold in Japan but also exported in vast quantities to the United States, Europe, South East Asia, and to many other parts of the world. A brief run down of its history: The KBF is the last in a very long line of vehicles to use the ORV (off road vehicle) platform. I'll probably have that fixed in my next post in that I will make a shield of some sort underneath the truck. $64.00. Tamiya Blackfoot/Monster Beetle/King Blackfoot, 3505014/13505014 10T Pinion Gear 5 out of 5 stars (1) 1 product ratings - Tamiya Blackfoot/Monster Beetle/King Blackfoot, 3505014/13505014 10T Pinion Gear What (I believe) you are saying, is that the longer 80mm Black shocks are allowing the rear trailing arm to travel further down, and thus, further away from, the gearbox - which in turn is creating a large enough gap for the dogbone to be able to 'pop out' of its sandwiching axels. As promised, here's a quick comparison of stock shimmed vs modified turnbuckle. $36.50. Your wording is exactly how I feel about it. Watch for yourself in the fresh "mayden drive" video below. It features metal-plated parts for the accent pieces. I made one piece stick out of the buckle one side by about 0.5 mm... ...and filed it down to the thickness of the shim I still had to apply here. Not sure why yours are shorter, perhaps someone installed shorter piston rods? Early Tamiya designs (as well as other manufactures at the time) could be wickedly over engineered. Like I say, I have not had trouble with this myself, but I am sure I have read elsewhere some time ago (on the TC forums) of people complaining of losing their dogbones as they have popped out mid run. CR01 platform) but its one of their charms. Aight, so after giving it another thought, instead of going thru the pain of making my own hubs I'm going to divert from the common design and try a straight knuckle to control arms kind of thing. One too many beers??? I really need to track down a King Blackfoot for my collection. King Blackfoot 2.0 coming up soon! I recently just dug out some of my old R/Cs. The biggest issues that this setup brings along is that the steering is now the lowest point of the vehicle. I enjoy figuring out the background of how things were done and I always learn a thing or two in the process. The side rails are mounted onto the frame itself. i have bought some MB 70mm shocks off the bay to see if this resolves my problem when they arrive (yep i know i could try them off of my own MB but heh we all need spares to fill the tool box). $9.00. Not as yet, not during the very few trial runs I've had stop far. Those I mistakenly bought at some point. What began as a plane utilization of spare parts reminded me what got me hooked onto this hobby in the first place. Some of the mods will be done just because I feel like it. So first on to the electronic components. I guess I'll just stick to those for now. 4.7 out of 5 stars 11. Standard BF uprights and knuckles are common and cheap. At first I was thinking of looking for a new one or even completely interchanging the whole front suspension for something like this: But I decided not to and instead repair the broken part and improve its robustness in the process - which only time will tell if I managed to do. Anyway thanks for the info it is greatly received and it has given me a few more things to check out. CR01 platform) but its one of their charms. First off I had to cut 4mm and 8mm off of the front and rear lower control arm mounts respectively. I'll explain why later on. I'm not adding a brace connecting the two side rails, in order to allow for deformation in case of a crash. i am also wondering if the dogbones could be purchased slightly longer which would make them sit inside the cup a little further at rest and not long enough to restrict the compression of the shock when the swinging arm rises. But then again I do share the same concern. Each APE adds 10mm of width. I've got to admit that this project sort of grew out of proportion and got me totally excited. The ball pivots are connected by an M3 threaded rod I cut to right length. Will await the shorter shocks and see what happens I think. Thorp 4530 Over Drive Counter Gear - Tamiya Blackfoot Monster Beetle Frog Brat. Hopefully I'll be able to find some time today to post a few things. It eventually underpinned the Frog (and Lancia Rally) before being modified majorly the first time into the original Blackfoot. I've got so many ideas that I don't even know where to beginn. I'm planning to grab this set of wheels, as soon as they're back in stock. I love the design evolution of any chassis. Michael Bloomfield 2,570 views. I assume all i will be doing by reducing the shock length is giving the BF a slightly lower ride. Later. ... NEW TAMIYA BLACKFOOT/MONSTER BEETLE Parts J Shock Towers MUD BLASTER TEJ9. This work summarizes the status of the on-detector and off-detector electronics developments for the Phase 2 Upgrade of the ATLAS Tile Calorimeter at the LHC scheduled around 2022. So fingers crossed! The rubber is soft and nice to the touch, the rims seem sturdy and weight wise light enough for the truck to handle. Here's another view through the frame. Looking for Tamiya Blackfoot parts. Here's another look from the side. I like your steering mod! Yesss, you read that right! Still the same, I am now awaiting a shorter set of shocks at 70mm the same as my MB ones as I see this as the only way to resolve it . That's not all I've done but this should suffice for a first comprehensive overview. $6.49 shipping. and not sure why one sits lower, i can only assume it is the 10mm extra length of the shock on the BF and MB ones off the bay. $19.99. 2004-05-01. Bondiq is a sort of resin, that is applied in form of a fluid and hardens under UV light. Hi guys, well I have had another bash at sorting the popping out dog bones. ... Tamiya Blackfoot Monster Beetle Servo Bracket Aftermarket Upgrade Vintage. Let me give you a quick rundown of what's been done so far. I'm not going to bore everyone and their dog by listing everything I did and parts and electronics I used. TT01, TT02, M07, M08, CC01, CC02, WR02 & more. The facia is missing because this way the truck looks freakin evil! (I think you should've got some of these included in the blue transmission bag right?). Do you ever scrape it on the ground/pavement??? Tamiya has marketed several updated version of the Blackfoot. I'll have to come up with something better. The hex drives are the same way. Make Offer - Tamiya Monster Beetle 2015 Blackfoot 2016 Mud Blaster Front End Suspension NEW ! I replaced the ones on my Bush Devil with those from a standard BF. Pop rivets seemed a cheap and good solution. Moving your Steering Mod to the top of the chassis eliminates issues with any of you steering rig being stuck by debris, etc. But nope the yellow shocks have arrived off the bay and they measure exactly the same as the BF black shocks 80mm. Check out the wheels here and tell me what you think: http://www.banggood.com/4PCS-Wheel-Rim-Tires-HSP-110-Monster-Truck-RC-Car-12mm-Hub-88005-p-1072827.html?utm_campaign=android-share&utm_source=google-play&utm_medium=organic&android_share=1&_branch_match_id=373961846384457014. rcMart is your best hobbies store to find your Tamiya RC spare parts, replacement & upgrade parts on-line. It was a dream come true and was quickly tossed in the corner for the next 13 years or so to come. Tamiya Plasma Edge 2 - upgrades - Duration: 4:02. The gearbox comes pre-assembled from the […] Once the proper design architecture was nailed down, alot of vehicles began to look and act the same. I'm actually pretty happy with how it turned out because there's virtually zero free play left in it! Hi, To this day, Tamiya still can over-think things (i.e. i see what you mean, that is a rather extreme angle , as gripper suggests ,try the rubber grommets or O rings in the cups there should be just enough packing to stop any slop in the dogbones when the are at the level point or parallel with the ground without binding up the drive system , an easy fix in mean time would be to add an internal spacer to the shock shafts to limit down travel , you will lose a few mm of suspension travel but it should stop the d-bones popping out until you get the new drive shafts fitted, I can confirm that the MB & BF shocks are the same length about 80mm eye to eye & the piston rods are not threaded on either (except at the bottom for the spring cap). I've got a draft on my mind already and will share it when it's ready. It was designed to work with Tamiya’s brand-new universal pin drive axle, giving you the option of installing brushless motors without fear of destroying the stock gear differential or … The LHC proton-proton collisions create a hard radiation environment in the ATLAS detector. Parma knuckles are very rare but eliminate bump steer (I have these). Interesting ist the size of the inner and outer bearings. Here's the link to the video: Today I also ordered a pair of 12mm hex adapters for the front axle (part number: GPM DT3010F-R): http://www.ebay.de/itm/351853724417?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. $12.50 shipping. For now I'm still pondering on the geometry of the steering setup and might change a thing or two in the process. I'm not happy with the lower attachment points of the front shocks, however. I used to put spacers inside my old FAV dampers until I got the re-modeled arms. 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